The Ultimate Guide to Eastern Greece: Beaches, Villages, and Cuisine
Eastern Greece is a diverse realm where sprawling islands and coastal mountains create a dramatic backdrop for exploration.
The Islands of the North Aegean
A world away from the party-centric hotspots, these islands offer raw, unspoiled beauty and a deep sense of history.
Lesvos (Lesbos): The largest of the group, Lesvos is a continent in miniature. It's famed for its vast olive groves (over 11 million trees!), producing some of the world's finest olive oil. The petrified forest, a surreal landscape of stone trees millions of years old, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The capital, Mytilene, boasts a grand castle and elegant neoclassical architecture, while the quaint fishing village of Skala Sykaminia feels like it's perched on the edge of the world.
Chios: The island of contrasts. Chios is the world's sole source of mastic, a unique resin harvested from the mastiha trees in the southern villages, known as the "Mastic Villages" (a UNESCO site). These medieval settlements, with their geometric patterns and fortified architecture, are utterly unique. In the north, the stark, mountainous landscapes hide villages like Anavatos, a ghost town clinging to a cliff face.
Samos: Lush, green, and mountainous, Samos is the birthplace of the mathematician Pythagoras and the goddess Hera. Its fertile valleys produce the famous sweet Samian wine. Explore the Heraion, a colossal temple dedicated to Hera, and the breathtaking Eupalinian Tunnel, a 2,700-year-old engineering marvel. The picturesque harbour towns of Pythagoreio and Karlovasi are perfect bases for exploration.
Ikaria: Famous for the longevity of its inhabitants, Ikaria is known as the "island where people forget to die." Time moves differently here. Life is relaxed, governed by the natural rhythm of the day. Visit the mysterious, sunken ancient city of Nas, a site of unique energy, and end your day at one of the island's legendary panigyria (village festivals), where dancing and feasting can last until dawn.
Lemnos: A windswept island of volcanic landscapes and vast, sandy beaches. Its capital, Myrina, is dominated by a Byzantine castle, and the island's remote feel is perfect for those seeking solitude and dramatic, untamed nature.
The Sporades: The Emerald Isles
Jutting out into the Aegean, the Sporades are known for their dense pine forests that sweep down to the water's edge, creating a stunning contrast of green and blue.
Skiathos: The most cosmopolitan of the group, Skiathos is famed for its vibrant nightlife and Koukounaries, one of Greece's most celebrated beaches. But beyond the buzz, it hides over 60 secluded coves and a charming old town with a lively harbour.
Skopelos: The greenest of the Sporades, Skopelos is a paradise of pine forests, orchards, and pristine beaches. It gained international fame as a primary filming location for Mamma Mia!. The iconic Agios Ioannis Kastri chapel, perched on a rocky outcrop, is a pilgrimage for fans. The main town, with its whitewashed houses and labyrinthine alleys, is a delight to explore.
Alonissos: A haven for nature lovers. The core of the National Marine Park of Alonissos and the Northern Sporades, it is a sanctuary for the endangered Mediterranean monk seal. The old village (Chora), meticulously restored after an earthquake, offers stunning panoramic views and a peaceful, bohemian atmosphere.
Evia (Euboea)
Often overlooked by international tourists, Evia is Greece's second-largest island, separated from the mainland by the narrow Euripus Strait. It's a land of dramatic gorges, thermal springs, and traditional villages.
Chalkida: The capital, just an hour from Athens, is famous for the "Crazy Water" of the Euripus Strait, where the tide changes direction unpredictably every few hours.
The Bridge: The modern suspension bridge connecting Evia to the mainland offers a spectacular entry point.
Karystos: In the south, nestled under the shadow of Mount Ochi, Karystos is a beautiful seaside town with a relaxed vibe and access to the ancient Dragon Houses, mysterious megalithic structures.
The Cuisine: A Taste of the Aegean Sun
The cuisine of Eastern Greece is a direct reflection of its landscape: robust, aromatic, and deeply connected to the land and sea. It is less about complex sauces and more about highlighting pristine, local ingredients.
The Holy Trinity: Olive Oil, Seafood, and Local Produce
Olive Oil: Lesvos and Chios produce exceptional, often organic, olive oil that forms the base of almost every dish.
Seafood: The Aegean provides an abundance. Look for grilled octopus, sardines (sardelles), and gouna (sun-dried mackerel, a summer delicacy).
Local Produce: The climate yields fantastic vegetables, wild greens (horta), and unique cheeses.
Signature Dishes You Must Try
Sardines from Kalloni (Lesvos): Grilled over charcoal and drizzled with local olive oil and lemon, they are arguably the best in Greece.
Pitaridia (Lesvos): A hearty, home-style pasta, hand-rolled and served in a chicken or goat broth, often with a sprinkle of salty cheese.
Mastic-infused Delicacies (Chios): The unique flavour of mastic is used in everything from liqueurs (Mastiha) and chewing gum to desserts like mastic ice cream and submarino (a mastic-flavoured sweet).
Soufiko (Ikaria): A glorious vegetable stew, similar to ratatouille, bursting with summer flavours from tomatoes, zucchini, eggplant, and potatoes.
Skiathitiko Poulari (Skiathos): A tender, slow-cooked rabbit stew, often prepared with red wine and aromatic herbs.
Ladenia (Kimolos, but popular in the region): A simple, delicious flatbread topped with tomatoes, onions, and capers – the Greek answer to pizza.
Local Cheeses: Seek out Ladotiri (a cheese stored in olive oil) from Lesvos, Feta from sheep and goat milk, and the spicy Kopanisti from the Cyclades.
The Liquid Gold: Wines and Spirits
Samos Wine: The sweet, golden Muscat from Samos is world-renowned, a perfect dessert wine.
Ouzo: While ouzo is a national drink, the towns of Plomari in Lesvos and Kalami in Chios are considered the spiritual homes of the best anise-flavoured spirit.
Souma (Ikaria): A potent, clear distillate made from figs, a traditional spirit that fuels the island's famous festivals.
The Soul of Eastern Greece
To visit Eastern Greece is to experience a different rhythm of life. It's about lingering over a coffee as the fishing boats come in, getting lost in a village where no one is in a hurry, and tasting food that has a direct, unbroken connection to the earth and sea. It's a region that doesn't just show you its beauty; it invites you to live it, one sun-drenched day and one flavourful meal at a time. It is, in every sense, the authentic, beating heart of the Aegean.